Sunday, December 1, 2019

Upon This Rock

There are 600 churches in Rome. That means if you visited ten churches a day, it would take you two months, without any breaks, to see them all. We have been averaging about 3-4 per day, selected from the "most important" (like the four Papal Basilicas) to the ones that happen to be right next to us (like the "Chiesa Nuova" which contains the body of St. Philip Neri, whom we visited yesterday).  We have been on a haphazard pilgrimage of sorts, in the steps of Peter and Paul, searching for various relics, like the chain that St. Peter had around his leg when he was in prison, which is on the altar at the church of San Pietro in Vincola (St. Peter in chains). This church also contains Michelangelo's statue of Moses, sculpted for the tomb of Julius II, the "Warrior Pope." It was incredibly crowded with groups of tourists, most of whom were ignoring St. Peter's chain and just looking at the Moses statue, snapping selfies and talking in loud voices. We had seen so many lovely paintings of the angel gently guiding St. Peter out of prison that we were more excited to see the chain.
St Peter's chain

We also saw a piece of Baby Jesus' crib in Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four Papal Basilicas, with a giant (and I mean giant) sculpture of Pope Pius IX kneeling before it with a sweet smile on his face. This was a fun relic to see just before Christmas. Lots of Popes are buried in the Papal Basilicas, often competing with each other to see whose tomb or family chapel could be the most magnificent. For example, in Santa Maria Maggiore, we have the tomb of Pope Paul V, whose nephew, Cardinal Borghese, was one of the great patrons of the arts and collected as many Caravaggio paintings and Bernini sculptures as he could. Across from that is Pope Sixus' funeral chapel, equally gaudy and fancy. The gilded ceiling of this basilica was made from the first gold stolen from the New World by Columbus, presented to the Pope by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.
Gold Ceiling 

And of course, I had to see Bernini's statue of St. Theresa in Mystic Ecstasy - Bernini and I both think this is his best work, and I admit I did at one point think of becoming a Carmelite nun so that I could "have what she's having" as my friend Steve put it, when commenting on my Instagram photo of the sculpture.

"I'll have what she's having"

Finally, at the end of the day yesterday, we had one more church to see: Santa Pudenziana, a very old church just off the busy Via Cavour, built on the ruins of the house of a senator named Pudens, a Christian convert said to have given hospitality to St. Peter himself.  Our goal: a piece of a wooden altar table at which St. Peter is alleged to have celebrated Mass. There is also an apse mosaic from the fourth century that is very lovely, but we have seen so many mosaics at this point (including the amazing ones in Venice at St. Mark's and eight Unesco World Heritage Churches in Ravenna) so we were kind of "churched out," as Matt said.

We approached the simple ancient facade of Santa Pudenziana down some steps, with beautiful round mosaic floor, in the twilight. The door was open, but no lights were on in the main part of the church. One man sat in the back, in silent contemplation. We walked around the darkened space, looking for Peter's table. Suddenly, we heard laughing and giggling coming from behind one of the side chapels. We wandered outside to the adjacent stone building - lights came from behind the door and we peeked through. There was a locked gate to some underground vault (probably where the table was), and then another door, where we heard children's voices, laughing, and the sound of a bouncing basketball. Behind us, another door led to a small chapel - we heard the gentle notes of a guitar playing an Advent song while a few voices joined in singing, softly and sweetly, in Tagalog.


Back in the courtyard, still no table, we heard more laughter from the other side. A woman hurried out and gave us a smile. She was carrying bags of food for the homeless. I asked about the table and she said to talk to the sister inside, who was teaching a class for refugees.  "I'm gonna knock on that door," I said determinedly, "and ask where they are hiding St. Peter's altar." I cracked the door open and there was a motley group of adults, gathered around a nun at a table. They had open workbooks and were laughing as they studied either English or Italian. "Excuse me," I asked the twinkly-eyed sister, "but I'm looking for the relic of the table where St. Peter celebrated Mass."

They all grinned at me. In the other room, a priest was talking loudly on the telephone, listening to someone's sorrows, telling them to come to Mass tomorrow, and then they'd get some coffee afterwards.  "Ah," said the sister, "I've never seen such a table, but I've heard about it.  I think it's in the part of the church that's being remodeled.  And you know, in Italy, when they tell you something is being remodeled, you have to wait for an eternity." The rest of the group broke into uproarious laughter. I joined in, then thanked them and went out.

Matthew by the stairs of Santa Pudenziana
Night had fallen, and the feeling of peace and joy was palpable, as the members of the Body of Christ went about their Saturday night routines. We never saw St. Peter's table, but we saw him more clearly in that church than in all the other grand Baroque basilicas put together. All the marble and gold and statues of Popes and paintings of saints in mystic ecstasy and relics...the entire grandeur of those churches put together could not equal the weight in heaven of a single guitar string, one page in an immigrant's notebook, a plastic bag of groceries, a child's basketball, in Santa Pudenziana, tucked away beside a busy street in Rome, her members just going about their daily activities. It was more than a fitting monument to Peter, who was there and is there, the rock upon which Christ built His True Church.

Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Five Weeks In Ferrara


On a dreary night in November, as Bill W. says, I awakened with a profound feeling of regret after a vivid dream. We have been staying in an apartment in the old ghetto area of Ferrara, using a heavy green bedspread as a duvet.
The Estense Castle in Ferrara

There is a heavy-set, older, eastern European woman who wears some sort of flowing kaftan. She reminds me of my high school English teacher, Liza Benedict,  a theater impresario and would-be actress . She tells me she is putting on a community theater production of Fiddler on the Roof and, naturally, she wants me to play Tevye. This production is in Yiddish, or English – it’s unclear. But it will be a casual affair, with just the members of the village showing up to watch it. It will be fun, spontaneous, more like a staged reading of the script than a real production.  I don’t have to memorize lines or rehearse much – just pick up a (frayed) copy of the script that is on the table there, some crumpled, xeroxed pages hastily stapled together, some even in different colors or on recycled paper with something else on the other side.

There is a second actor who will also be playing Tevye. He’s an older man, something like F. Murray Abraham, with a gravitas and yet a flamboyance about him. He reminds me of my high school math teacher, Mr. Highsmith. He has the script and has been rehearsing. He and I will share the role (the way actors in Laura Ferri’s productions at Northwest always did), performing on alternate nights.

There are only a couple of weeks of rehearsals. I keep looking for a complete version of the script, but I can never find one. The script I have been given is only partially complete. Some of the pages are missing; they have been torn away and lost. I am not sure if the lines are in Yiddish, English, or a combination of the two. I make a few very half-hearted attempts to rehearse, or to find the missing parts of the script, but I am reassured by the impresario woman’s words that it is a casual, community theater style event and I feel I will be able to “wing it.” After all, winging it is my forte. I can step out onto a stage with even a partially completed script in my hand and enthrall the audience with the power of my personality.

Meanwhile, the other actor, the F. Murray Abraham/Mr. Highsmith guy, is working his butt off. He is spending many sleepless nights, staying up until 3 AM, memorizing lines, practicing the songs and dances (particularly the centerpiece, “If I Were a Rich Man”) to the point of exhaustion. I start to feel some misgivings. Where is my script? I search around but can’t find it. How much of an effort am I really making, though? I tell myself I will be okay once the time for performance comes.

Opening night arrives, and the other actor is stunning. He has memorized the entire script, even though we were told we didn’t have to, that a staged reading would be okay. He steps onto the stage and plays his part immaculately, perfectly, and the audience is delirious with appreciation. I understand that this performance has been the defining moment of his career. I watch him and realize I am not prepared. I don’t even know where the other part of the script is. I tell him he should just go ahead and do the rest of the performances, and I will watch from the sidelines, which I do.

I have failed. I never realized how serious this was. I never realized how much I would have to prepare. I didn’t know, going into the performance, that it was the performance of a lifetime, that I could have played the part as well as Daniel, if I had known, really known, what was going on, that this was not a rehearsal, not some schlock community theater staged reading, but a performance that would determine my moral essence, because as Sartre knew, existence precedes essence, and because I failed to act in this drama, this “Fiddler on the Roof” where I could have risen to the occasion and spoken the right lines, I became a failure, a coward, a scum, as Sartre says.

The profound feeling of regret I had upon awakening has followed me ever since.

A frog-demon punishes people in Vasari's Last Judgment
So here I am in Italy, eating the weird Ferrara bread called “la coppia” which is foamy and unsatisfying in texture,
"La Coppia"
taking walks “fare una passegiata” as they say in Italian every day with my husband, traveling by train to Venice and Bologna and Florence and Padova to see marvelous works of art that I have taught about my entire life.
Giotto's Lamentation in the Scovregni Chapel
Here I am planning the next stage of my trip, researching how to visit Siem Reap and Bali in an environmentally ethical and sustainable fashion, downloading New Zealand camping apps, reading about backpacking in Ethiopia. And yet, I am still tormented by regret that I failed to act in that moment, when we sat in a circle in a humanities department meeting and heard Daniel Sparler called a white supremacist, misogynist, anti-Semite, and I said nothing. Worse than nothing, because I read some hastily-written, conciliatory, completely fear-driven statement which said that I could not understand how there could be two such horribly divergent narratives and I was having trouble reconciling them. When I look back on that moment, and subsequent moments that fall and winter, I understand how anyone, even someone who considers themself a master of spontaneous, ad hoc performance, could become a collaborator with fascists.


Peter asks, "Is it I, Lord?" in Ghirlandaio's Last Supper
Yes, it’s a shame that the school has become so profoundly unwelcoming to the very people who helped shape it into what it is, that the place I knew and loved and came of age as an educator is gone now. But I could live with that grief, if that were all I had to live with. It’s the feeling that during that first week of September 2018 I somehow lost my soul, and that I will never regain it – that is my fear and my regret and my grief.

I suppose it’s the height of ego to believe that I would be exempt somehow from real sin. I have never felt so Catholic, so glad to be Catholic, as I do here. Right down the street from us is the basilica of Santa Maria in Vado, where in 1174 the blood of Christ miraculously spurted out of the Host at the moment of transubstantiation and you can climb a staircase to see the bloodstains on the ceiling. In Padova we saw the lower jaw, teeth, and miraculously preserved tongue of St. Anthony. There was also a little notebook where pilgrims could write prayers to Nicolo Cortese, a priest who is in line to be canonized in the spring – he died under Gestapo torture in Trieste without divulging any information about the secret network of the Resistance of which he was a part. The prayer requests will be analyzed by experts in hopes that Father Nicolo, “Servant of God,” will perform a miracle or two.Website for Father Placido Cortese In Florence, we climbed the hill to San Miniato al Monte for a Latin Mass and Vespers in the 1000 year old crypt. 
San Miniato al Monte

What do I seek in all this? What do I ask? I guess the same thing Thomas Merton sought – the Grace and Mercy of God.
My favorite Nativity in the Uffizi gallery

Friday, October 25, 2019

The Big Cities of Europe

Well, I was feeling bad about not having written in a while, but I just looked at the fact that the last blog post had zero views and I felt better. This is mostly a record for us, but we have spent so much time just rushing around looking at places that everything is kind of a blur. I thought our lives might slow down now that we are in Ferrara for five weeks, but when I think of everything that has happened this week, it is clear that isn't really happening much.

Anyway, let's see... highlights of the great cities we have been in - London! Paris! Barcelona!

London was rainy a lot. We took double-decker buses everywhere and saw all the sights. We walked for miles and miles. We saw St. Paul's in the sun, in the rain, and everything in between. The dome lit up at night, before and after the wonderful production of Midsummer Night's Dream at the Globe theater, was like a beacon welcoming us to London. The mammoth interior on a Sunday morning, when we went to hear the choral mattins service, loomed over us. We ducked into pubs and ate pies and chips. We went to see The Book of Mormon at the Prince of Wales theater and laughed our heads off. My students had always told me to go see it, and they were right! Our hosts, Bill and Jane, were just delightful. They gave us space to do our own thing, but were also engaging and fun to hang out with. Bill has known me since I was four - one of my dad's oldest and dearest friends - and I love hearing his stories about my dad.

The biggest surprise for me was the Tower of London. I had never done any really touristy stuff in London, except for once we had lunch at Harrod's when Jack was a baby, and I wanted to go to Buckingham Palace and the Changing of the Guard, and the Tower, and Trafalgar Square, and all those things with Matt. I really expected the Tower of London to be sort of fakey and silly, for some reason. But it was actually incredible and awe-inspiring. When the Beefeater (who was an incredibly nice man and told us all about the requirements for being a Beefeater, and how he became one because of his son's school project) mentioned things like "there's the spot Sir Isaac Newton lived when he was master of the Mint," or "here is where Anne Boleyn came through the gate" I got goosebumps. And the ravens were just magical as well!

Matt and Tower Bridge
Paris was sunny and 70, and again, we walked and walked and walked for miles. We went to the opera to see Bellini's I Puritani, which was magical. It was Queen Victoria's favorite! We didn't go up the Eiffel Tower, mainly because you had to have reservations like weeks in advance, but we did go on a cheesy and delightful Seine river cruise, which was, again, surprisingly wonderful and just corny enough. I had never been to the Pantheon, and seeing all the heroes of France buried there, especially Voltaire and Rousseau, was an incredible highlight.
Matt enjoys art

In front of Notre Dame, which was closed because of the fire

The Louvre was super annoying because they had moved the Mona Lisa back into the main building, which meant there was a two hour line just to get up to the floor where she was. Thus, we did not get to see all the other really great art, including one of my favorite paintings, Ghirlandaio's Visitation, that is up there next to her. We did, however, spend all day there, and say the "Dying Slave" of Michelangelo, the Raft of the Medusa, Liberty Leading the People, and this wonderful Spanish painting by Murillo where a monk is having mystic ecstasy in the kitchen. We went to cafes and restaurants and farmer's markets and lived in a little apartment on the fifth floor, under the eaves, near Les Invalides.

Barcelona was dreamy, even with the huge protests that were going on because the Catalan separatist leaders were sentenced the week we were there.  Here is a link to an article about it if you are interested in learning about the issues.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/oct/14/catalan-separatist-leaders-given-lengthy-prison-sentences

Basically, every night there would be a bunch of people wearing masks, running around the streets right by our hotel, throwing projectiles at the police and lighting garbage cans (and later, cars) on fire. This was distracting, but honestly I don't feel like it detracted from our visit because we were staying with Dad and Susan in a really nice hotel with a rooftop swimming pool. Susan and I would play Scrabble every afternoon on the rooftop (she mostly trounced me, but on my birthday I was very lucky and got two seven-letter words in the same game and was able to beat her for once) and Dad and Matt would relax and read the paper.
Sagrada Familia

At the Opera in Barcelona


Spices in the market in Barcelona
Sagrada Familia was one of the best places I have ever visited. It was absolutely thrilling to be there during the Angelus prayer. The architecture and designs by Gaudi are mind-blowing. Other highlights: just walking around the city, Parc Guell, the Liceu Opera House, where we saw a production of Turandot that was set in space, the Palau de la Musica Catalana, where we saw a Flamenco performance, and of course another city full of incredible food!

So that's the brief story of the three big cities where we spent about a week each. I did make little travel movies about both London and Paris, and will work on one for Barcelona when I can. In the meantime, I hope to start writing about the experience we are having in Ferrara, the city of the Este family of the Renaissance.

Saturday, October 12, 2019

Rambles in the West of England

It's been a while since I wrote - we have been packing in the activities and travels, and are now actually in Biarritz, in the southwest of France, for a few days, but I guess that's a story for another post.  I've been making these little travel films of each adventure and posting them on my YouTube channel and between that and secret shop editing, I have neglected the blog!

We left the rental car in Edinburgh and hopped on a train to Carlisle, in the northwest of England, right at the northern end of the famous Lake District, home of Coleridge and Wordsworth and all those folks. Anthony and Caroline had a dream, when they got married, to live in a house at the end of a lane at the top of a hill, and here they were. They were kind enough to host us for a few days, and Anthony, my dear friend from decades ago when we all lived in York, schlepped us around the area, showing us the sights.

I tried to take a panoramic photo of the view from their house
I know the Lake District is known for the Romantic poets, and we did think about them, and I recited "The World is Too Much With Us" at Derwentwater, but mostly I was thinking about the timeless, enduring quality of deep friendships that last for decades. When I saw Anthony, it was as if no time had passed. We were talking and laughing about stuff that had happened to us 30-plus years ago, as well as the visits we had had in Seattle in the intervening time, and also having amazing new conversations about religion and spirituality and kids growing up (their daughter Lucy is the same age as Jack, and we got to meet his younger "kid," Emilia, who is now 18 and a barrel of fun!) and all kinds of topics while we rambled on the paths beside the lake. It also felt really homey to be there - we got to do a load of laundry and hang it up in the sun; Matt helped fix a window; Anthony baked bread for us, and invited friends over for Sunday lunch. We all went out to see the Downton Abbey movie (the perfect film to see with them!!) and just chatted up a storm the whole time.

I miss my friends in Seattle, but seeing my old friends in the UK reminded me how close we remain, even when we are miles apart. I sure hope they can come visit Seattle again soon.

Our next stop was Bath, because I wanted to see the Roman Baths and the Georgian architecture, but also because my old student, Nick Bayne, lives there and works as (of all things) a cheesemonger.  When he was in my humanities class, he had a pretty encyclopedic memory, and now he has used his keen intellect to develop a profound understanding of all things cheese. He presented us with a fine "bespoke cheese plate" at the Fine Cheese Shop where he works - bespoke basically means "custom," which I didn't know. He told us all about the history of each of the local cheeses he selected, regaling us with stories of the cows, the techniques, and more information about cheese than I thought it was possible to know.  We also got to tour the historic sites and spend one entire day in the Thermae Bath Spa, soaking in the same millenia-old water the Romans enjoyed.  You can't actually go into waters of the original Roman baths because, according to Nick, they are full of meningitis bacteria.
My favorite cheesemonger

Georgian architecture at the famous crescent

Here lies a Hampshire Grenadier...
Our next stop on this mini-tour of the west part of England was Winchester. Why? Because the AA Big Book mentions that Bill Wilson, the founder of AA, visited Winchester Cathedral when he was overseas during World War I.

"We landed in England. I visited Winchester Cathedral. Much moved, I wandered outside. My attention was caught by a doggerel on an old tombstone:




Here lies a Hampshire Grenadier
Who caught his death
Drinking cold small beer.
A good soldier is ne'er forgot
Whether he dieth by musket
Or by pot."

Since I am an AA history freak, of course we had to go visit. However, there are are a couple of things I have to point out about this.  First of all, this isn't the actual grave stone, but a replica. The original was moved to the Winchester museum for safekeeping. It was thrilling nonetheless to see the replica, which catches a person's eye right as you enter the cemetery there in front of the magnificent Cathedral, which was constructed in the days of William the Conqueror.

Secondly, the reason the Hampshire Grenadier died is NOT because he drank alcohol. The problem was that the beer was not strong enough! "Small" beer did not have as high an alcohol content as "Heavy" beer, which meant the Grenadier caught dysentery or some other bacterial disease from drinking the "small" or "weak" beer on a hot day.  The rest of the doggerel (not mentioned by Bill) reads as follows:

Soldiers, be wise from his untimely fall
And when you're hot, drink Strong, or none at all.

In other words, the beer has to have a high enough alcohol content to kill all the bacteria, so the advice is actually to drink MORE alcohol!  Oh, well. It's been inspiring sobriety since 1939 anyway.

In case you missed the travel film I made about this little section of our trip, here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1HGJae-cZE




Wednesday, September 18, 2019

The Romance of Scotland

Our route around Scotland

Rushing around the highlands of Scotland has made me notice my character defects more.  Over seven nights, we stayed in five different places: Pitlochry, Findhorn, Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness, Glencoe, and Loch Long (near Loch Lomond but I got mixed up with the location). Every place we go, I wonder if this is the best possible place we could be, if I am missing out on some other place that might be even better, and I second guess myself about whether a castle or a waterfall or an activity is the right one. Sometimes because of time constraints we skip something we had planned (for example, we had to get to the Findhorn tour by 2PM so we had to skip seeing the herd of reindeer in the Cairngorms) and then I wonder if the thing we skipped wasn’t “better” than the thing we skipped it for. Luckily, I can turn to Matthew and he will make a decision for us, so that I am not going back and forth in agony. I am not sure what the source of this defect is – it is an asset as well, because it makes me plan so many fun activities and book ahead for things and we do end up having a great time in the end after I chill out.

Speaking of fun, I have been thinking a lot about how Romantic Scotland is. It all started the first day I was in Edinburgh in 1985, as a grad student. I had a room at Pollock Halls, right by Holyrood Park. I had bought an old copy of Ivanhoe and was sitting by the open window, drinking a dram of Scotch and reading, when I heard the cry o’ the bagpipes coming across the moor – someone was practicing.  Then and there, I decided to learn to play, and that was the beginning of my “Romance” with Scotland.

looking for Nessie
I guess by Romance I mean an imaginary idea about what a place is like, something that has often been ramped up by stories and songs and pictures. Romancing Scotland seems like an easy thing to do – it’s so beautiful and picturesque, and the weather is so moody all the time, and the history so bloody.  I used to get really annoyed by the stuffed Nessies and fake kilts and bad bagpipers busking in the streets (I was taught to eschew them by my teacher) but on this trip, I have embraced it all – the whistling winds and misty rains, the babbling brooks through the glens, the craggy cliffs and mysterious ruined castles on islands in lochs. You may have noticed Matthew wearing his tweed cap and wild beard – he fits right in on the hillsides here!
Mysterious ruined castle



Our first stop was Pitlochry, where we attended the Highland Games. These events are still pretty macho and male-oriented, but this gathering included a woman who was a grandma;  she had been the first woman piper in Pitlochry in the 1950s, and was now marching in the band with three of her children and three of her grandchildren! And her hair was dyed blue, the color of the Scottish flag! There was another woman, an American named Heather from Colorado, who was participating in the heavy events: tossing the caber, throwing the shot put
and the hammer. She came in last (and couldn’t even carry the 130-plus pound, 18 foot long caber very far, much less throw it) but she was hugely popular with the crowd of several thousand, who shouted things like, “Good on ye, Heather!”

Nessies 
The evening after the games, we were in a pub called the Old Mill with a bunch of the members of various pipe bands, and another American couple was staggering around, greeting everyone. They were dressed like nightmare versions of American tourists in Scotland: she had on red leggings with the Royal Stuart Tartan and a “ Scotland” sweatshirt with a tartan Nessie on it; he was wearing a kilt paired with an Arizona Sun Devils shirt. But everyone welcomed them, shook their hands, and seemed to enjoy their over-the-top appreciation of Scotland. For once, I didn’t feel impatient or judgmental – I was happy they were having such a grand time.

The Findhorn community today
We spent an afternoon at the Findhorn foundation, which is a legendary intentional spiritual community – the first of its kind, I think, in the UK, founded in the 1950s even before the “hippie” movement inspired so many of these places. It’s the granddaddy of them all – visited by Andre Gregory, Deepak Chopra, and many others. Since we eventually would like to have a small spiritual retreat center of our own, it was important for us to see how it works, how it’s faring, meet some of the people and learn the history. It was very interesting and inspiring, but it has grown really large and in addition to the 150 or so “members,” there are a lot of hangers-on, people who are “attracted to the ethos” and live nearby. They contribute financially to the community and participate in events and such, but don’t have to make a full commitment. We couldn’t decide if this was watering down the original intention, but without these extra people, I am not sure the community would be viable in this day and age. They have a lot of holiday homes and campsites and eco co-housing and caravan parks now, and you can pay 25 pounds in order to join in the community for a day, or several hundred pounds to join in for a week, and so on. Read more about how to get involved in Findhorn HERE

After a night in an inn that was built in 1734

1734 Inn
(Matt was worried he would fall through the floor of the room and into the pub below, but they had some of the best scallops and mussels we had ever eaten), we traveled over to Inverness, filming a version of Macbeth (short) at the historic castles on the way. We also visited the battlefield of Culloden, another Romantic place, where the Jacobite uprising made its last stand.

The Jacobite rebellion is the subject of a lot of Romantic historical fantasy writing, including my own unpublished, unfinished novel Shona, My Love and my friend Anthony’s fabulous musical about the miser of Carlisle (a place where the Jacobites actually won a battle). More recently, I guess Outlander is all about that time period as well.  People love the idea of these doomed Highlanders sweeping through the countryside, loved by the simple country folk who adored Bonnie Prince Charlie – I mean, just the name itself is incredibly Romantic, conjuring up images of a girlishly handsome young man with soft blue eyes who fled, wounded from the battlefield and was sheltered by young Flora MacDonald before sailing back to France, ne’er to return. The heroines of these romances usually don’t fall in love with the prince himself – they fall in love with one of his strapping, large Highlanders – a rugged man with a hairy chest and a kilt. Of course, the romances themselves are often as doomed as the Jacobite cause itself and everyone ends up dying or deserting each other or sailing off to the colonies.

Queen Victoria and John Brown
Speaking of rugged kilt-hairy-chest-Highlanders, even Queen Victoria had a crush on one: her beloved servant, John Brown, who was her constant companion after Albert had died.  The Queen loved going on vacation in the highlands (they had their own castle there of course) and dressing up in a tartan ball gown at parties. When she died, she asked to be buried with a lock of John Brown’s hair in her right hand. Here's the preview of a great movie version of this called Mrs. Brown starring Judi Dench and Billy Connolly.

After the defeat of the Highlanders in 1745, some really strange things happened.  First of all, almost immediately, the bravest Highland soldiers who hadn’t died in the rebellion were recruited into the British army and became the fiercest fighters on behalf of the Empire in places like North America and India. This is pretty ironic, but not surprising. Second, the fiercest Highland lairds started hobnobbing with the British, and started clearing out their estates and putting sheep on them, which meant their tenants (whom they were meant to take care of) had no place to go, nothing to eat, and many starved to death. This was the famous “Highland Clearances,” themselves the subject of many haunting songs and poems and paintings.The ones who didn’t die had to go to America or Australia or Canada, which is why there are so many tourists from those countries today who come back looking for their roots. Third, and most weird in my opinion, these Highland Scots societies started springing up in London. I guess mostly displaced Jacobites wanted to preserve their culture, or what they kind of thought was their culture – these societies, which grew more and more popular in the 19th century (what with Queen Victoria loving Scotland so much), created things like family clan tartans and highland games and Burns Night with the salute to the haggis, and all those things that evolved into the touristy Scottish stuff we have today.
Culloden battlefield

Writers like Sir Walter Scott also contributed to Scottish mania with poems about the Lady of the Lake and novels about Rob Roy and other mysterious, romantic figures. Burns wrote poetry in the Scots dialect and people ate it up. All the Romantic poets like the Wordsworths and Coleridge were also gallivanting around Scotland looking at waterfalls and writing poetry, so everyone wanted to go there. English aristocrats would go up to Scottish “hunting lodges” for the weekend and stalk around in the woods, looking for deer, and then dance at ceilidhs and sing Burns songs. It was super cheesy but everyone loved it – except for the poor crofters who were left up there, eking out a living. But today the descendants of those same crofters are making money on Air B and B and Nessie tours, welcoming people who want the authentic Scottish experience as much as they did two hundred years ago.



The matchless scenery of Glencoe
When we got to Glencoe, we stayed in a bunkhouse that was attached to a super ritzy hotel (like 450 a night). There were people staying there who were hiking on the West Highland Way, a walking path that takes you from Glasgow to Fort William, through some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world. Vans would take their luggage for them, and they would stroll along, stopping at these upscale hotels for the night to drink single malt Scotch and swap stories of their adventures in the glens. I didn’t mind these people, either – I was glad they were there with us, enjoying the Romance of Scotland. After all, we only walked a few miles on the trail ourselves, singing bits of the song “Massacre at Glencoe,” which recounts the underhanded murder of thirty-two members of the MacDonald clan who were a little late signing the loyalty oath to William of Orange.


Bonnie Prince Charlie died in Rome at the age of sixty-four, a sad and dissipated alcoholic. However, his fans will always remember him as that twenty-five year old would-be monarch, marching across the land, being cheered by the country folk, blue eyes sparkling in his handsome face. As we drove down the shores of Loch Lomond this morning on the way to our last stop, we sang “Ye’ll tak the high road and I’ll tak the low road,” not minding that it was cheesy and cliché. We have loved every minute of our journey through the Scottish Highlands.

Monday, September 9, 2019



Yesterday morning, we had the pleasure of attending Sunday services at Marchmont St. Giles Parish Church, the place where I was baptized in 1986. The Minister, Rev. Dr. Karen K Campbell gave a great sermon about humility, in connection with the reading from Jeremiah 18 about the potter and the clay. “’Can I not do with you, Israel, as this potter does? declares the Lord. ‘Like clay in the hand of the potter, so you are in my hand.’” The word “humility” comes from the word for “earth” or “clay.” At the time I was baptized, I was a graduate student in the philosophy department in the David Hume Tower, which we can see from the window of our Air B and B. In the words of Thomas Merton, “I was in the thick of my thesis, making hundreds of mistakes that I would not be able to detect for several years to come, because I was far out of my depth.”
I was out of my depth in other ways as well in those days. Bill Wilson puts it this way: “This lack of anchorage to any permanent values, this blindness to the true purpose of our lives, produced another bad result. For just so long as we were convinced that we could live exclusively by our own individual strength and intelligence, for just that long was a working faith in a Higher Power impossible. This was true even when we believed God existed. We could actually have earnest religious beliefs which remained barren because we were still trying to play God ourselves. As long as we placed self-reliance first, a genuine reliance upon a Higher Power was out of the question. That basic ingredient of humility, a desire to seek and do God’s will, was missing.”
As we were coming into town on the first day, and I told the taxi driver that I had gone to Edinburgh University, he said, “It’s one of the top ten universities in the world, you know.” In the days when I was proud of that fact, I thought humility was some kind of groveling contempt for oneself, a quality to be avoided at all costs. I was desperate to show off my accomplishments and to accomplish even more, because in those days my self-worth was tied to external accomplishments. If I prayed, it was to complain to God or to tell God what to do. Luckily, over the years, repeated humiliations have taught me the folly of reliance on my own intellect, my own accomplishments and achievements. At Marchmont yesterday, we sang a hymn based on Psalm 139 with the line “for the wonder of who I am, I praise You.” This is the meaning of humility for me today – I didn’t make myself, did I?


The castle from Princes Street Gardens; 
Ian once played "Lament for Major General Reginald Harmon" here










The other day, Matt and I were walking past Edinburgh Old College and I asked Matt if he wanted to look inside the courtyard because it was one of the most beautiful examples of Robert Adam Scottish Enlightenment Neo-Classical architecture ever, and he said sure, so we went in and there was this man in highland dress carrying bagpipes.  My old teacher, Bob Beck, taught me to scoff at pipers in full highland dress walking around Edinburgh, because they are usually buskers, not very talented, giving bagpiping a bad name, so I was suspicious. But we went over and struck up a conversation with his companion, who turned out to be an American woman who worked for the Virginia Tattoo. She said he was going to play the bagpipes for some kind of medical school event and who was he? None other than the pipe major for the Scots Guards, Ross McCrindle. For those of you unfamiliar with the world of piping, this would be the equivalent of seeing a random cellist playing in the Edinburgh Old College and then realizing it was Yo-Yo Ma.
He was totally friendly and humble, and very patient with me, even when I showed him the picture of myself in the Vet School Pipe Band.  He asked who my teacher was and I said Bob Beck. He had never met Bob, but said he sounded like quite a character, which he certainly was. I told him how Bob had returned his MBE because he thought he did not want to be a “Member of the British Empire,” how when I had played poorly he had said, “Sounds like the Queen’s comin’ round” and other bits of Bob Beck wit and wisdom. Ross played a little bit of the piobiareachd “Lament for the Children, the jig “”Troy’s Wedding,” and per my request, “The Australian Ladies.”  When I asked him to play that last tune, the look on his face and he said, “That’s sort of an unusual request.” I told him it had been my “signature tune” for the MSR (March, Strathspey and Reel). He replied that it had been his late father’s favorite, and he had never heard anyone request it before. As I listened, I thought of Bob Beck, and his father, both of whom have returned to the earth now.

Ross plays "The Australian Ladies" for us 

The next day, we climbed Arthur’s Seat and looked out to incredible views over Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, the Firth of Forth, and Duddingston Kirk,
On Arthur's Seat


Ruined  St Anthony's Chapel in Holyrood Park
where the matron of Masson Hall (the ladies’ boarding house where I used to live) had attended services. She loved to tell us the story of the time she saw a young lassie sitting in the pew during the service one Sunday. Everyone else was going up for communion except for this young woman, who sat there, weeping piteously, too full of shame to approach the altar. When everyone else had taken communion, the minister came over to her with the bread and wine. He looked down kindly at her and said, “Tak’ it, lassie; it’s meant for sinners.”
fine Georgian architecture



Sunday, September 1, 2019

Not Going "Back to School" for the First Time

This time of year, for the past thirty years, I have started getting ready to go back to school. I have certain rituals: posting the poetry slam masterpiece "What Teachers Make" by  Taylor Mali
and the "anyone, anyone?" scene from Ferris Bueller's Day off, and then I start thinking about my introductory lectures and lessons and readings for each of my classes.  Not that I ever stopped thinking about teaching, as I sometimes joke about “teacher brain” and how whenever I see something, no matter how horrible, my mind starts working to figure out how to incorporate it into the classroom.  For the first time ever, at a museum, I just looked at the exhibits without thinking about where to fit the material into the curriculum.  I simply wrote about it in my blog instead.  I’d love to do a lesson on historiography, comparing different treatments of Henry Ford’s anti-Semitism and how it has been dealt with by the Ford Museum, the City of Dearborn, the Anti-Defamation League, etc.  But no more – I have left my teaching job and am traveling the world for a year before going “back to school” myself, to Seattle U, where I plan to pursue a M. Div. and hope to become some kind of chaplain.

I am thrilled to be switching gears at this time in my life.  Matthew spent more than a year undergoing treatment for colorectal cancer, and is now cancer-free.  What better time to take a year off and travel the world? I am turning 56 this year; what better time to step back and re-examine my life, and return to a lifelong dream of divinity school?

I want to be very clear, however: if not for the changes at my former workplace over the past several years, there would be NO WAY that I would be taking these actions.  My original intention was to live and die at the school I loved, the school founded by three legendary teachers, the school that made me the person I am today, that gave me my living and my vocation, my dearest friends and my sense of purpose, for the past almost 30 years. I would have been like my own high school English teacher, Meta O’Crotty, who taught (literally) up until the day she died.  Legend has it that one day, at the age of 70-or-80-something, she said to her students, “I’m not feeling very well” (probably in the middle of a lesson on Virginia Woolf) and went home early.  Later, they found her seated in a chair, with the Oxford English Dictionary open on her lap.  She was dead. Some wags have inquired, “What word was she looking at?” If only we knew.

That would have been me.  Instead, I spent this week in New York, visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art and attending a performance of “A Fidler Afn Dakh,” the Yiddish production of Fiddler on the Roof.  At the show, I struck up a conversation with a fellow theatergoer, a fifty-something woman who happened to be another teacher who had also just left her job at a formerly radical independent school in New York.

When a school styles itself a “progressive” independent school, they usually mean (according to their website) that they are committed to social justice, inquiry-based interdisciplinary education, and all that good stuff that educators like John Dewey believed in. The website boldly proclaims that the school "remains faithful to the spirit of its founder,”  who created an experimental public school in 1921 on the Lower East Side serving mostly Yiddish-speaking children of Jewish refugees who narrowly escaped the pogroms. My new friend had just returned from a Yiddish summer camp https://yiddishsummer.eu/, where she had been learning Yiddish protest songs and klezmer music for several summers in a row. She told me this was one of the most radical acts of resistance possible these days – to preserve and speak the Yiddish language, to become a living Holocaust memorial. This explains why she was attending the “Yiddish Fiddler.”

She told me that Angela Davis had attended her school. I learned that Rank Smith, who became director of after the founder passed away, was brought before the HUAC. In his testimony, Rank told the committee, “We are a private school, but essentially we don’t believe in private education…in a democracy the main scheme of education has to be public education. We are a private school by accident rather than intent. We would prefer to have a public school system where every citizen would take pride.” Eleanor Roosevelt was a supporter of the school and served on its board for decades. Anne and Abel Meeropol, who adopted Julius and Ethel Rosenberg’s children after they were executed, sent them to the school as well. Later, under the pen name Lewis Allen, Abel wrote the anti-lynching song “Strange Fruit” made famous by Billie Holliday. In 1964, students participated in the Congress of Racial Equality protests for a fair world at the World’s Fair in New York that year. After a group of protesters that included Bayard Rustin and James Farmer were arrested for blocking the entrance to the New York City pavilion, students from this school volunteered to replace them – and were subsequently arrested also.

With a legacy like that, what radical, subversive, progressive teacher wouldn’t want to teach there until the day she died?

Unless, as my friend and I found, there is no “there” anymore, because the school has been reshaped by the board and the head of school into a very different institution, a place that actually stands in the way of teachers doing the work they love, and more importantly, prevents them from following the school’s original mission, which was centered on faculty who modeled thinking and acting with integrity.  The current administration of a school like this has very little connection to the original vision of a rigorously compassionate, fiercely intellectual community dedicated to a life of integrity and service. Radical teachers do not “retire” from or even “quit” such a place. What happens is this – the school disappears, and the institution that replaces it in the same building, usually contemporaneously with a fancy remodel, is not a place for such teachers, is not kind to such teachers so they must leave, or be forced out, to seek out other communities, perhaps a younger school, perhaps to found their own school, perhaps to try their hand at something else.

I can’t begin to fathom all the reasons why these types of institutions change over the years, but I am guessing it has to do with a change in the parent and student population, the political climate, the overall culture of the area they live in (Yiddish speaking Reds and granola crunching professors move out; Microsoft and other moneyed types move in) and above all, of course, money. True progressive education is hard. Really hard. And most private school parents today don’t want their children to have a really hard time. They don’t pay forty or fifty thousand dollars a year so their kids can feel uncomfortable and angry and get arrested for putting their bodies in harm’s way for the sake of social justice. They want their kids to go to good colleges – to think critically just enough for that, and no more. Not too much critical examination of their society a la James Baldwin, more learning how to excel in such a society. Heck, last year's senior parents didn't even want their children to spend 20 hours working on a political campaign, because it might interfere with college applications or worse, get in the way of sports.

The original Northwest School was founded by geniuses who were also teachers, and who knew what genius teachers needed to do their best work. I recently read a short entry from the writings of Paul Raymond, in which he described an original student-centered classroom:

“The teacher I love above all others, however, is a young man – just 24 this year – whose field is biology….The first class he ever taught began with him absent. There was a note on the blackboard:

            ‘Hi! This is biology 1-A. I’m Mark Terry. This is a lab. Look at any of the equipment or magazine or books, if you wish. Please put things back as they were at the end of the period. This afternoon and tomorrow morning I am going to the mountains to get some stuff. Up to 5 people may go each time. Sign up below, then meet me here at the right time.’

The ‘stuff’ he brought back were roadkills: skunks, possums, cats, etc. His next class began with a few words about how sad it was that the animals were killed, but, at the same time, how fortunate, because Mark wished to add them to his skeleton collection. He then enlisted the students’ assistance in recovering the skeletons.
            That, of course, was by no means the end; it was the beginning, not only of anatomy, but physiology and even animal behavior and many other wonderful things, all charted along lines eventually determined by the students.”

I was very pleased and honored that the seniors asked me to speak at their graduation this year. I loved teaching them, especially the International Students and my philosophy class, and wanted to keep the focus on the “kids,” while at the same time making it very clear that the instantiation of the Platonic Form, the spiritual vision of the founders, is no longer in the physical building very much. I based my speech on a Platonic Ideal  as I understood it, as I learned it from the founders, and also on The Grapes of Wrath, the part where Tom Joad gives his famous speech to Ma about how “when there’s a cop beatin’ up a guy, I’ll be around.” (I just quoted that from memory, so it might be inaccurate, but if you’ve read that book, you know what I’m talking about). I am including the video of my speech, if you care to watch it here.

I was honored to learn my teaching craft from Paul Raymond, Mark Terry, and others who, like Thomas Merton’s great teacher, Mark Van Doren, “would start talking about whatever was to be talked about. Most of the time he asked questions. His questions were very good, and if you tried to answer them intelligently, you found yourself saying excellent things you did not know you knew, and that you had not, in fact, known before. He had ‘educed’ them from you by his question.” Merton writes that Van Dorn was able to ennoble his students, and in turn was perfected and ennobled by his vocation. This is what is meant by the original founding statement of the school – the quality of education is dependent on the quality of the faculty, and that old Northwest School “offered a faculty.” This new iteration of the school simply offers a program, a program offered by just about every other run-of-the-mill progressive, liberal arts-based independent school in the whole system. There are still some genius teachers there, but they get the message, in no uncertain terms, that they are interchangeable and replaceable and expendable, like the interchangeable blocks in the new schedule. I wish them well today as they go back to school, to try to honor and ennoble their students, and their profession, for another year.

sic transit gloria mundi, right?  #embracetheconstant